A Few Things I Have Learned Since Moving to the UAE

I’ve learned how to burn Arabian incense—loose sandalwood and frankincense crystals—in a gaudy goblet using charcoal.  

I’ve learned how to hail a taxi, and most importantly, how to direct a taxi to my anonymous apartment, which is on a street with no name.

I’ve learned how to navigate Lulu’s Hypermarket, and am constantly surprised by the ever-changing inventory.  I’ve decided that each week I will research 2 recipes using a new fruit and a new vegetable, since the produce department is full of such exotic ingredients from around the world.  Today’s purchase was galangal, which I will use to make Tom Kha soup.  It was delightfully easy to find the other ingredients (kaffir liime leaves, lemongrass stems, etc.).

I’ve learned that nothing is as it seems, and nothing ever happens when it is supposed to happen.  I’ve learned that if it does, then it is an unexpected treat akin to winning the lottery.  And one must celebrate.

I’ve learned how to flush the toilet in my apartment.  It takes the perfect balance of force and wait time, with two (sometimes three, or if I’m lucky one) push on the lever.  

I’ve learned that desalinized water wreaks havoc on the hair and skin, so I have installed a shower filter.

Actually, the watchman, Sajit,  installed the shower filter.  I’ve learned that cash is the universal language, and it pays to reward the watchman for his watchmanly duties (which involve sitting outside the apartment with the numerous stray cats, and installing water filters for helpless American tenants with no tools).  

I’ve learned that Abu Dhabi is a haven for stray cats, and aside from the occasional pigeon, they are the only animals I ever see in the city.

I’ve learned that life gets a lot more interesting when you are living among so many different cultures.  The diversity is my favorite part about living in the UAE.  I look at my beautiful kids, and their beautiful faces in so many shades of skin (from pale with freckles to dark cocoa brown), their different accents and mannerisms, their sense of humor (and lack of… ok, so maybe they just don’t get my jokes), and I feel like I am living, really living, an international life.    

I’ve learned to keep my mouth shut around other teachers, and to choose my friends carefully.

I’ve learned that little gifts of chocolate and heartfelt thank yous will guarantee immediate IT assistance at work, and a very clean classroom.  

I’ve learned that this city is only 40 years old, and despite the wealth, is still a “developing” country.  

I’ve learned the difference between a hijab, an abaya, a shayla and a burqa.  The hijab is the colorful head scarves that Muslim women wear all over the world, the abaya is the long black robes that Emirati women wear, the shayla is the black head scarf worn with the abaya, and a burqua is the piece that covers the face (In the UAE it looks like a metallic beak, but is actually made out of some sort of hard fabric or felt, and is bronze in color, typically only worn by older women).  

I’ve learned that you can tell a woman is beautiful just by her eyes and the way she walks.  

I’ve learned that Muslims here need not pray during the iman’s prayer call, but can actually “make up” their 5 prayers a day at anytime in between the first call (about 2 hours before sunrise)  and the last call of the day (about 2 hours after sunset).  

I’ve learned to embrace malls.  It’s the place to be in the UAE.  

I’ve learned to count my blessings, which is sometimes most meaningful and important on the days when it is most difficult to remember them.